The Stylish Groom
Menswear fashion designer Joseph Abboud thinks it's great that couples today approach their weddings with so much creativity. However, as couples put a new spin on old traditions, yet another question arises: What does the groom wear?
"A couple can decide to get married on a beach in Tahiti, and the guy will wear white linen pants and a T-shirt," says Abboud, who has been designing formalwear as part of his signature menswear collection for 11 years. "But that's not what most people are doing. If you're someone who is fairly traditional but wants to add a little panache on his wedding day, this new creativity can just increase the confusion to the whole planning process, which is overwhelming enough."
The designer has good news, though, for men getting married. This season the outlook for wedding style is a "more formalized evening wear," while retaining "an air of relaxed formality." In other words, while the classic tuxedo shape is still all-important, the new style of tuxes is a far cry from the more rigid looks of even a few years ago. "The beauty of these styles is that the wools are much softer," says the designer. "They feel weightless when you try them on. Additionally, they have a softer construction and a more natural shoulder. These new models look sharp and stylish on men of all shapes and heights."
The groom should consider the overall tone of the wedding when deciding what to wear, advises Abboud. "Generally, evening weddings are more formal than day weddings," he says. "It is important when the groom is selecting his ensemble to consider the location of the wedding and what the bride is wearing. The man should dress to complement the bride. You don't want to clash, nor do you want to be dressed more or less formally than your future wife. There's a harmony to which you have to pay attention. Keep in mind how everything will look in photographs."
Style options in tuxedos are fairly limited - perhaps thankfully so. A groom can choose among double- or single-breasted; peak or notched lapel; shawl collar and two- or three-button tuxedos. While style is entirely a matter of personal taste, Abboud says, the investment in a good quality tuxedo is not. Expect to spend between $650 and $900 in a better department store.
"Whether a guy is renting or buying a tuxedo, he really has to remember one thing," says Abboud. "In the same way that good quality and tailoring show, a lack of quality in the make-up of the clothing can be very evident, maybe even more so. However for men, the beauty of a tuxedo is that they can wear it again for future occasions."
A man's sartorial creativity can come into play, stresses Abboud, in the choices he makes about wearing an ivory or black jacket, and in his accessories. "For spring or summer, the idea of the off-white dinner jacket is great," he says. "If you're having a wedding outside or in a warm climate, it's nice to break away from the all-black tuxedo. An elegant option is the off-white dinner jacket, with a black bow tie and formal black trouser, which can work for day or night."
As much as Abboud advocates a touch of ivory, he advises grooms to be cautious with the use of color. Avoid red and similar strong colors, he dictates, because in the case of wedding wear, bold colors are not the most sophisticated look. "A man should look elegant on his wedding day," he says.
He is not fond of the color-coordinated bow tie and cummerbund option. "It seems like a bit much and not very inventive," he says. Abboud suggests the vest as a more modern alternative. Under a single-breasted tuxedo, choose a black bow tie, white or ivory shirt (ivory is an increasingly popular shirt option), and vest in a refined black and ivory pattern or other muted, textured shades.
For summer weddings that don't require a tux but call for a bit more than linen pants and T-shirt, Abboud suggests a simple solution: a black or navy suit, white shirt and solid dark silk or striped tie. "I would stick with the dark tie, because otherwise it just looks like you have on a suit and tie," he says. "The dark tie suggests formality."
For those who prefer to go without a tie, Abboud recommends avoiding band-collared shirts, and choosing instead to head into a store's designer department for a fashionable white dress shirt.
There is still one more style issue that needs to be addressed before the groom goes to the altar, and that is what kind of shoes to wear on the big day. "The idea of formal shoes has changed," says Abboud. "A plain black lace-up dress shoe can now be worn with a tux. As with a tux, if you get a great shoe, you'll wear it again and again."
